Going on an African Safari in Tarangire National Park

As a break from our volunteer work in Orbomba, our tiny group hopped on a bus and drove for hours from camp to visit Tarangire National Park. While the Serengeti or Kruger National Park receive plenty of tourists and are exceptionally well known, little known Tarangire has the densest population of elephants, which makes for an exciting adventure. It’s the 6th largest park in Tanzania and has accommodation in and out of the premises.

On our way we drove though Arusha, a city living under the shadow of Mount Kilimanjaro. We stopped at a gas station and experienced drop toilets, which is essentially a toilet where you just squat and go. It was a rather comical experience, since none of us had seen them before.

On our way

On the way to the park are lots of artists showing off their finished works. I wish I had gotten a piece because they were beautiful and brightly colored. The road was gravel but had easy access to the park, making for a nice ride and into to the savannah. When we stopped to get our tickets and everything, there were some cool history kiosks and a tower to look out over the plains. There weren’t many creatures in sight, but one could maybe see zebras in the distance!

local artwork

Actually, one thing we were told before the safari is that you will be bored of zebras. Of course, I didn’t believe this in the slightest, but there are so many that they do become an overly common sight. Their stripes are beautiful and they have a strangeness to them, but they surprisingly do get old after a while. The larger herds were rather cool and we got hung up on a few since they refused to get off of the road.

Zebras

Of course you see plenty of other critters, from antelope to impalas. They mostly kept to themselves, away from the bigger herds. I loved the impalas, they were so skittish but so cute. Aside from four legged, hoofed, prey type animals, there is the opportunity to see baboons (not my personal favorite, they scare me), ostriches (which also scare me), iguanas, monkeys, and other small creatures. The baboons looked less attractive than they do in “The Lion King,” with their bare bottoms and sharp teeth. Their fur is stiff and sticks straight out. The ostriches were much bigger that I imagined, with their pale thighs and puffy feathers. They are surprisingly fast too. The iguanas are super cool, but move a lot less than the ostriches do. I didn’t ever realize they were that big!

A lone ostrich

However, some of the most memorable experiences had to do with the smaller creatures. Where we ate lunch was loaded with monkeys that were highly skilled at stealing food. The inattentive groups lost a few items and they were rather entertaining to watch. The other animal that we saw was the hyrax, which is a little rodent looking thing that is related to the elephant. Our guide, Lekihiti told us that it was his favorite animals and when asked why, he said, “well, it’s my favorite thing to eat.”

At this point, I should also mention the “Big Five” or some of the top animals to see consisting of lions, rhinos, cape buffalo, elephants, and leopards. In less moral times, the term was used to define the five most challenging animals to hunt, but now that most of them are endangered or barely existent, it is important to leave it at best five to see, rather than to hunt or harm. Rhinos especially have faced challenges from illegal poaching and hunting in general. Ivory is usually highly desired, putting these animals at a risk. This being said, make sure the tours you choose are ethical and willing to help with preserving the reservations.

Some of the other herds you will spot are wildebeest and cape buffalo. The wildebeest mingle among the zebras and are rather cute, but the cape buffalo scared me a little bit, making it easy to see why they are part of the big five. I believe I read a book when I was younger about how dangerous they are (similar to hippos) and have supposedly have killed more game hunters than other African animals. Honestly, if you google the “world’s deadliest animals” they are likely to come up. That being said, I feared them, but they were amazing to watch from a distance.

Cape buffalo

Besides the Cape buffalo, you will also see some of the other big five. While leopards and rhinos are sparse (I actually didn’t see any at all), you might have a chance to see a lion. They are rather sneaky and hard to spot, but if you are lucky, your guide might spy the top of a mane or some leftovers of a meal, hinting that they could be nearby. We saw one male, but it was pretty tricky to get a full view. Be patient, take your time, and you may have the best luck yet.

Brief tangent: Personally, an animal that deserves to be on the big five list, but isn’t, is the giraffe. These stunning creatures are long and lanky, with a certain amount of grace and a certain amount of awkwardness. They actually fit in surprisingly well to the environment, so it was super exciting when we could spot them hiding amongst the trees.

Our first giraffe

Last but not least, the highlight of Tarangire is certainly the elephants. There are so many of them that it’s hard not to miss them while driving along. My favorite spots to see them was by the watering holes, since here you can find them bathing and then covering themselves in dust. There were lots of little calves that danced behind their mothers and followed the herds around. The bulls were huge and lumbered closer and closer to our van. At one point, he almost touched it!

Elephants!

After all this excitement, we were pretty worn out and ready to return to camp. It was a fantastic park to visit and full of creatures that were carefully managed and cared for. If you are in the area, Tarangire is not a place to miss.

The Moment That Changed My Life

Everyone tends to have some sort of turning point; a moment that changes their perspective on life or even morphs them and their interest. My life has been a roller coaster even though its been comparatively short, I have already had one moment burned in my mind that changed me forever.

During the summery days of June, I sat in Orbomba, Tanzania, awaiting the news of what we were doing today. When we were told that we were participating in a walk to retrieve water, I was excited to get some fresh air, see some sights, and take a break from playing spoons and mafia inside the mess tent. I loved spending time in the savannah, with the wind looping through the sycamores and gently pushing the sand piles around.

The mothers of a local Maasai family joined us to take us to the water hole. They were stunning in their blue and red garb, the traditional Maasai colors. They had the stretched earlobes, a common sign of beauty in the area. One of them looked strikingly similar to my own mother, with the same facial features and different skin color. We even brought out a photo for comparison and the group agreed on how similar they looked. This was translated to the woman and she called me her daughter for the rest of her stay. The mamas gave us jelly jars, which were used to collect the water and before we knew it, we were off.

Me and one of the mamas

On the way, we smiled and laughed, enjoying the fact that we were almost as far away from home as possible. We joked around and pointed out the tracks in the sand from numerous critters. Eventually, we ran into boys, likely no older than ten or eleven, herding massive groups of goats and cattle. We had simple conversations, such as “how old are you?” and “what’s your name?” We smiled and waved goodbye soon after and continued on our merry way.

After a cheerful conversation and mountains of inside jokes, we arrived to our destination. The laughter was silenced, the conversations were muted, the comedy halted as we gazed upon a single sight: the water source. After our long walk, we arrived to little but a puddle. The water was so contaminated that you couldn’t see the bottom, except for the half inch of water before the shoreline. It was a surreal feeling, to see that this mud was their source of life. To further illustrate the uncleanliness of the water before us, the group leaders wouldn’t let any of the volunteers or non-locals touch the water or help fill the cans with water.

To add to the contamination, the shepherd boys had to bring their livestock for a drink. The water we gazed upon was crawling with bacteria from the cows that just waddled in and defecated, filled with sludge from being stirred up from all the life using it. There was no way this water would be considered potable, let alone safe to swim in, if you were going by US or European standards, yet the locals had no problem filling the jars up.

The water source

At this time, our guide took the time to tell us that little is done to purify the water in any way, except for occasionally boiling and mostly just scooping the settled water off the top of a large tank. We were also told that many times in the summer, this pool dries up and the women must walk further for water. Lastly, he gave us an anecdote of a Kenyan group who refused to drink the water from a newly installed well. When they water flowed, they were afraid that the volunteers were trying to poison them, since the only liquid they had seen with the same appearance was kerosene. They were so used to poor water conditions that they didn’t recognize the water that we find in bigger cities.

These facts and the mere situation was a blow to my fragile, “first world” country perspective. And that wasn’t even the end of the walk.

After collecting the water, we had to carry it to the house, which was a few miles away. This task was grueling as the water we toted was in cans weighing about 50-60 pounds when filled. We took turns with a partner to carry them, but the women leading us to their home carried it the whole way themselves. As it turns out, these women not only do it once, but maybe at least six or seven times a day. It is the largest part of their daily routine and is crucial for plants, livestock, cooking, cleaning, and drinking. Of course, this is all in addition to regular chores.

When we arrived to the homes, they were a traditional Maasai house of cow dung and sticks, which provides coolness from the sun and warmth from the chilly nights. The man of the household had six wives and thirteen children, which makes him fairly wealthy compared to the rest of his area, since men do not take a wife unless they can successfully support them.

The children of the family were ecstatic to see us and they loved my blonde hair, camera, and hat. Of this experience, I wrote in my journal: “The kids took particular interest in my camera and swarmed me, wanting to press the buttons and see themselves. They loved my hair and hat and loved to play with it. Even though they knew no English and we knew no Maasai, we were able to understand each other.”

The family

This phenomenal interaction with the families distracted me from the water situation for a little bit, but then reality kicked in. It jolted my life into a harsh reality of how many people in this world must live. The United Nations stated that by 2025, two thirds of the world will face water scarcity and 1.8 billion will have no clean water access. Some believe that the next world war will be fought over water, due to how essential it is to our daily life but also so scarce. This is real life with real people, and this experience drew the veil back from my materialistic, first world view.

The United Nations stated that by 2025, two thirds of the world will face water scarcity and 1.8 billion will have no clean water access.

“Water for Life 2005-2015.” United Nations, United Nations, http://www.un.org/waterforlifedecade/scarcity.shtml.

Now over two years later, I still hold this experience dear and remember it daily. It drastically changed my perspective on nearly every aspect of my life. Tanzania ultimately turned my life upside down and fueled my voracious appetite for travel and humanitarian aid. I have since felt compelled to make a difference in the world of water usage, whether large or small.

Before delving into that topic, I must digress. Some people, when I discuss this experience, begin to view Tanzania as only a developing country, which in reality, developing and developed are two weak words often used to describe people that merely live a different life. An example I always go back to are the Romans and Incas, since both civilizations were incredibly advanced and yet Rome always seems to get the credit for architectural wonders. Just because a civilization lives differently, it does not mean that they are simple, developing, or lesser. In fact, many “developing” countries have age old traditions or building styles or art that make them rich and unique. The moral of the story is “to each their own” and only that.

The shepherd boys

However, when it comes to water, some people are unable to have cleaner water that would promote health, reduce waterborne illness, and allow people to meet their goals and careers. It is not the fault of the people; water is a necessity often influenced by politics, economy, geography, and more. People often don’t have clean water because they can’t get to it, not because they are primitive or less civilized.

Now over two years later, I still hold this experience dear and remember it daily. It drastically changed my perspective on nearly every aspect of my life. Tanzania ultimately turned my life upside down and fueled my voracious appetite for travel and humanitarian aid. I have since felt compelled to make a difference in the world of water usage, whether large or small. I feel obliged to help the people that I know and the people that don’t, because this issue resonated with me so much. Its what fueled my blog and my future travels. It’s what fuels me.

And to think, this all started with a puddle of water!

A Day in the Markets of Orbomba

Note: There is current dispute on the value of service projects abroad and the view of the culture that is being helped. My time in Tanzania focused on building a school in a heavily impoverished area, when, naturally, the social status is difference across the country. This was my experience and what I took away from it, but certainly not a generalization of the nation or its people as a whole.

On June 18 of 2016, I experienced the beginning of what would change my perspective on the world forever. Traveling to Tanzania was a dramatic change from my life at home, but experiencing the hardships of poverty was another detail that brought dramatic change to my life. This day was the first of many daunting tasks that put all of us into the trying situations the people we stayed with face on a daily basis.

Upon returning from a morning walk and eating a big breakfast of Spanish eggs, toast, cereal, chai, and fruit, our group was given a task to simulate the difficulties of poverty. We broke into groups and were given 10,000 Tanzanian shillings per team, which at the time was 5 USD and happened to be what the average family in the area lived on per week. The average family also happened to be seven people in size. With the cash, we were given an index card of our family’s scenario. My groups card was the poorest family and our index card required us to buy a jelly jar for water, soap, and food for the family.

The market pens not in use

Along with our instructions, we each paired up with one of our hosts to help the language barrier, as Maa is spoken in the markets and none of us are familiar with the language. Mollel was our guide and he was very helpful. He taught us words such as punguza, subuni, nahindi, and more, meaning less, soap, and maize, respectively. In the simulation, we did the bargaining and price determining, much as the family we were representing would have to. It was pretty tough to find products that weren’t crawling with bugs (especially cornmeal) or seemed clean. When we did find some that fit the criteria, it was usually expensive and almost not worth it. With the money we were given, we managed to divide up our money in the following fashion:

  • 1 jelly jar: 3000 shillings
  • 1 package of soap: 1800 shillings
  • A few kilos of cornmeal: 2500 shillings
  • 2 avocados: 1000 shillings
  • 12 bananas: 1500 shillings

While this seems fairly good for five USD, this is not a healthy lifestyle for seven people over the span of a week. Some families are fortunate enough to have a second form of gathering food, such as their own crops and livestock but not all are that fortunate. Some others are forced to give up food to send their child to school or so on.

One team’s findings

What did we do with the stuff we bought?

The items we bought from real vendors was donated back to the camp staff and community around us to help with their nourishment and other needs. From this same market, we also bought a goat for our camp staff that would be ceremonially slaughtered in the proceeding days, as is a common gift.

So what was the takeaway?

This was the first of many lessons on this trip that taught me to be humble and understand how lucky I am. Having the food I need to have a healthy life (among many other things) is something I am more aware and grateful for having after this experience.

Additionally, I apologize for the lack of photos, but I didn’t take my camera as we weren’t in a touristy area and I wanted to respect the privacy of the people involved. Thank you for reading!

Exploring the Napali Coast

I have travelled far and wide, and it is easy to say that at the time this article was written, I would claim that Kaua’i’s Napali Coast is one of the most gorgeous natural formations I have ever seen. The steep coastline and thick foliage contrasting the turquoise waters form a picturesque view unparalleled by many of the world’s sights.

The first glimpse of the coast

There are two main ways to get to the coast: hiking or by boat. However, the hike is very strenuous and dangerous, making an option only for those who are fit for such a task. While the hike would be enjoyable, it also doesn’t offer a view of the coast from afar, which is quite remarkable.

My family and I opted to take the boat option, so we could get some snorkeling in too. Originally, we planned to take a catamaran, but it was canceled due to high winds, so we scheduled for another day and took a raft instead. Our tour company, Kauai Sea Tours, was super helpful in navigating this dilemma and I would totally recommend touring with them.

The open water

We departed and spent time on the open ocean for a bit before heading to the coastline. Here, you can catch glimpses of the forbidden island, which is only open by invitation. You may also have an opportunity to see marine life, including whales, dolphins, and sea turtles. The dolphins are in what’s called an alpha state, meaning that they are sleeping. With this being said, do not take any tours that swim with dolphins. Since dolphins are nocturnal, swimming with tourists is the equivalent of waking up in the middle of the night consistently, leading to sleep deprivation and numerous health issues. There is a ban on this in Kaua’i, but other islands allow it, so make sure to pick tours carefully. However, seeing them and the other critters is a harm free and beautiful experience!

Two dolphins

On the way to the coast are many stunning sea caves and grottos. Some can be accessed by raft (when weather and waves allow), which we got to partake in to some extent. The one pictured below has an opening on the other side that has hosted numerous weddings (all millionaires, of course). Many of the caves can be rather dangerous so make sure you are with an experienced captain.

There are many other beautiful sights along the way as well. There are some remote beaches, many of which are restricted and sacred, so please honor these wishes. Some allow foot traffic or access by kayak, but these trips can be risky, especially if the weather denies easy exit. Our captain told us a tale of a man who kayaked out and was trapped by waves. Since no captains could access him, he was stranded for over a week. The beach pictured below, Honopu beach, was actually a burial ground, making it a heavily restricted area. Kings of the native groups were buried here, along with the common people. However, it was believed that the royal people had mana, or power in their bones, which could be stolen after burial. Due to this, a person was commissioned to climb the cliff face and hide the bones in the rocks. Once the deed was done, they would cut their rope and commit suicide to prevent anyone from knowing the location. Their family would ascend in social class as well, making it a privilege and honor to bury the king. This beach, even though sacred, has been in several movies, including Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides.

Another interesting thing about this beach is the tunnel, which was used in several movie scenes. One of the most intense scenes filmed included a man flying a helicopter through the tunnel that is fairly narrow. The man was an ex Vietnam pilot and very talented, but despite his skill, the tunnel was an extraordinarily dangerous place to fly. In exchange for risking his life, the filmmakers paid him a pretty penny to do it, not once, but three times. After realizing this daunting task was easy for him, he took his earnings, started a helicopter touring company, and said that if the customers gave him a generous tip, he would give them “the ride of a lifetime.” To those who tipped, they found themselves barely squeezing through this tunnel, afraid that they will never live to see the light of day. Apparently, after scaring tourists on a regular basis, Hawai’i removed his rights to a helicopter company, but not his license. He supposedly relocated to the Grand Canyon, where he does other death defying tricks.

Honopu Beach

The tour will take you from the shady and more rocky side of the island to the green and lush side, where the iconic views of the Napali coast are. The hills are beautiful and jagged due to the volcanic rock and torrential ocean waves. At the most beautiful spot, the mountains dip into a nest with twelve spires. Legend has it that a god in bird form hatched twelve children, of which were intended to be nocturnal. Their mother tended them carefully and reminded them they must be in the nest by sunrise. However, one night they stayed out too late and the poor mother watched them turn to stone.

The twelve spires

It may be different for other tours, but ours ended in a brief snorkeling adventure. For someone who has grown up around freshwater, like me, it’s always a weird experience swimming in the ocean. Nevertheless, it was super fun and we got to see some ocean life, such as fish and coral. It was fun to get up close and personal with them!

Fish!

Overall, this was one of my favorite parts of our trip and an experience that I would recommend to anyone in the area! It was stunning, family friendly, and full of history! I would love to return someday!